Review
Fish, often bottom-billed in many barbecue and grilling cookbooks with a few token recipes, succeeds spectacularly as the star of the show in Fish & Shellfish, Grilled & Smoked. Authors Karen Adler and Judith M. Fertig--Kansas City foodies and members of an all-women barbecue team called the 'Que Queens--argue that fresh fish and shellfish are a healthier option to other traditional barbecue meats due to their low-fat, low-calorie qualities. There's also wonderful variety, as demonstrated by the 300 recipes--presented in a clean, eye-pleasing layout--that pack this book. Standouts, and there are many, include Cape Cod Blackfish ("mild-flavored yet firm and meaty"); Grilled Baby Squid, brushed with olive oil, garlic, and paprika; and North Woods Smoked Walleye, marinated in wheat beer and served over mixed greens. "Fish Tales," sidebars of fish facts and history that pop up throughout, are a nice touch. There's also a funny story about the authors' reluctance to include a smoked-eel recipe. ("First of all, you have to buy a live eel. That means 30 minutes with a live eel squirming in a plastic bag next to the driver.") In addition, for folks who have a hard time getting fresh fish locally, there's a handy list of fish purveyors. This is a terrific cookbook that would fit nicely on any griller's bookshelf. --Andy Boynton

Fish & Shellfish, Grilled & Smoked (Non)

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